Tag along with this popular plein air watercolor instructor as she guides you through Africa’s largest urban market, an ancient mountaintop fortress, and the sandy beaches of a popular beach resort, and introduces you to the people and cultural traditions of Morocco.
By Emily Olson
I once embarked on an incredible adventure to Morocco, not just as a traveler, but as a leader of a watercolor retreat. My goal was to share the joy of painting and inspire others to view the world through a new artistic lens. What I could never have anticipated was just how deeply this journey would transform me.
First Impressions
Leading up to the retreat, I felt the weight of preparation — crafting content to sustain my watercolor tutorial business while I was away, batching videos for my YouTube channel, and developing a curriculum that would empower my retreat guests to paint confidently on location. On top of that, the prospect of traveling alone, especially internationally, always brings some anxiety. Concerns about flight delays, language barriers, and unexpected mishaps loomed large. But once I hit the ground in North Africa, all that stress turned to excitement.
Arriving in Morocco felt like stepping into a vibrant painting. En route from the airport to my riad, a traditional Moroccan hotel, I got my first taste of the bustling streets of Marrakech. Motorcycles and scooters zipped around donkeys pulling carts; I even spotted a family of four balancing on one tiny scooter. The traffic moved fast and unpredictably, yet there was an unspoken rhythm that kept it all flowing. Despite the chaos, I felt a sense of safety and anticipation. In that moment, I recognized that for the duration of the trip I would be placing my trust in strangers, a fact that was both daunting and freeing.
As I settled into my charming riad, I was greeted warmly by the staff and treated to my first taste of Moroccan mint tea. It was on the hotel’s flower-adorned rooftop that I created my first painting of the trip; the creative energy just flowed.
The next day, I made the three-hour journey to Atlas Kasbah in Agadir, where Helene and Hassan Aboutayeb would be hosting me and my guests for the next eight days. The logistics of the retreat were organized by UpTrek, providing assurance that support was just a phone call away. Arriving at Atlas Kasbah felt like stepping into paradise. The lodge, a hilltop castle nestled in the Atlas Mountains, was surrounded by terraced gardens filled with palms, orange and pomegranate trees, and vibrant flowers. I was welcomed with a delicious lunch and, of course, more mint tea. I sat on the patio overlooking the breathtaking landscape and couldn’t resist pulling out my watercolor journal to make another painting.
Connecting with Guests
My guests arrived later that day, full of excitement and with a wonder that mirrored my own. We bonded over an incredible dinner filled with stories and laughter. I realized that facilitating such a unique experience was truly an honor, and I wanted to savor every moment. We packed the week with immersive painting days, set at a large outdoor table under the arched roof by the saltwater pool — an ideal space for our painting-from-life theme.
Basking in the perfect weather outdoors, we explored fundamental watercolor techniques, including blending, mixing, and quick exercises like five- and 10-minute scene sketches. I also led a full landscape demonstration focusing on composition, and we painted still life scenes using fresh fruits from the gardens. I enjoyed watching my guests fill their watercolor journals with vivid memories of our trip. Each painting was a testament to their growth and the inspiration surrounding us.
Immersed in the Local Culture
Beyond our painting sessions, we had the chance to experience eye-opening aspects of Moroccan culture. One highlight was the traditional Moroccan tea ceremony led by Hassan, the owner of Atlas Kasbah. He demonstrated the preparation and serving of mint tea, explaining its significance as a gesture of hospitality. This theme of warmth and openness became a recurring motif during my time in Morocco.
A particularly memorable moment came when a group of women from a local collective visited the lodge to demonstrate how argan oil is produced. They cracked the nuts by hand to extract the kernels, then used enormous round stones to grind them into a butter-like paste. Thinking about them repeating this back-breaking work day after day left me in awe of their dedication and resilience as they work to support their families.
We also ventured out of the lodge for excursions led by knowledgeable guides. One standout trip took us to the Souk Elhad, Africa’s largest urban market. As someone who typically doesn’t enjoy shopping, I found myself captivated. The endless rows of shops filled with traditional textiles, pottery, jewelry, and produce; the vibrant atmosphere; and the friendly vendors made for an exhilarating experience. I was impressed to discover that most people I met spoke English; in fact, most Moroccans are educated in four languages — Berber, Arabic, French, and English.
On another outing, we took a gondola ride up the mountain to Agadir’s ancient fortress, where we enjoyed sweeping views of the landscape below. From this vantage point we could see a vast empty expanse of land marked only by scattered trees and roadways. Our guide explained that it had once been the old city of Agadir, which was devastated by a catastrophic earthquake that claimed 30 percent of its population in 1960. Today, the land remains undeveloped, standing as a solemn memorial to those who perished there — a testament to the Moroccan people’s respect for their history.
Once, we spent an entire day at the renowned Taghazout Beach, a perfect setting for a seascape plein air watercolor demonstration. Capturing the ocean’s shifting colors and fluid movement was a thrilling challenge. My guests joined me in sketching and painting from life, snapping countless photos, and enjoying cold drinks under cafe umbrellas. I managed to complete four paintings and took numerous reference photos, and even got to ride a camel along the beach with one of my guests.
Another standout experience was our day trip to the Imperial City of Taroudant. On the way, we stopped to see the famous tree-climbing goats, a sight that felt straight out of a storybook. The friendly goat herder waved us over with a smile and invited us to get close to the goats. To my delight, he handed me an adorable baby goat, instantly melting my heart.
Taroudant itself was captivating, with ancient walls dating back to the Roman era. I couldn’t help but imagine scenes from centuries ago, with warriors patrolling the ramparts, bows and arrows at the ready. It felt like stepping into a hidden chapter of history, filled with mystery and echoes of the past.
Pleasant Company
After each excursion, we returned to Atlas Kasbah, where we were treated to incredible meals, fresh bread, mint tea, and wine. After accidentally insulting the staff early in the trip by standing up from the table too soon, we learned that each dining experience was a three-course affair — an appetizer, main dish, and dessert. We were encouraged to take our time and savor every bite. As someone who often rushes through meals, this gentle reminder to slow down and enjoy the moment made me appreciate the importance of true rest and refreshment.
One afternoon, I found a quiet spot in the fruit tree garden to paint. There, I had a heartwarming encounter with one of the gardeners. He noticed me sitting on hard rocks and laid down a mat for me to sit on instead. Moments later, he brought me flowers. This small act of kindness epitomized the genuine care for one another that I witnessed throughout my time in Morocco.
The entire journey shifted my perspective significantly. I had always thought that my life in America represented the pinnacle of happiness. Witnessing the radiant smiles and vibrant spirits of the Moroccan people made me realize that happiness isn’t tied to a specific location. It’s rooted in the connections we build and the kindness we extend to one another.
A Fond Farewell
On the last day of our retreat, I had the pleasure of painting Hassan from life. He sat patiently as I demonstrated how to capture facial proportions and blend just three colors to create realistic skintones. His only request was that he be allowed to take photos of our finished paintings. Instead, I gifted him the portrait, a gesture that delighted him. As we gathered for our final dinner, my guests shared their beautiful paintings, each one a unique snapshot of our shared experiences.
Our evening culminated in joyous dancing to the vibrant music of a traditional Berber folk band. I completed 20 small paintings during my time in North Africa and left with inspiration that will fuel many more in the future. Without a doubt, Morocco has been the most remarkable place I have ever visited. I went with hopes of making a difference, but in the end, it was Morocco that changed me.
Connect with Emily Olson at emilyolsonart.com.
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